An Eco-adventure on Costa Rica’s Caribbean Coast

Friday, July 24, 2009

Dear Reader,

The drive east from San Jose to Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast is through some of the most inspiring scenery you’ll ever see. I spent a good portion of the trip overwhelmed by the sheer number of trees, horizon to horizon, in the Braulio Carrillo national park.

I was heading to Limón, a port town on the coast. Having experienced the national park, and the small rural towns on the way, Limón was a shock. Noisy, dilapidated, lacking in hotels or amenities or infrastructure, there was nothing that attracted me to it.  An investment package was kick started last month, totalling almost a billion dollars, to give Limón a much-needed facelift.

My final destination was the Tortuguera national park and canal. The canal was constructed in the Trejos administration, in the late 1960s, linking the ports of Moin and Limón with Tortuguera, to help transport goods, mainly bananas. The canal runs parallel to the coast, and extends for 70 miles.

The canal is a famous tourist attraction, with regular excursions offered by a variety of tour operators. I went in a panga, a low-lying boat, perfect for getting a feel for the canal…and getting wet. The pangas are driven at a good speed, weaving as they go through the water lilies.  There’s a good camaraderie with fellow travelers in other boats, waving and greeting each other as they pass.

The water in the canal is green and murky at the outer edges, and deep. Trees and vegetation tower overhead. Logs drift past. Strange birds fly overhead, or wade on stilt-like legs, or creep through the undergrowth. Butterflies flit past. Monkeys can be seen periodically and heard frequently. From time to time the watchful eyes of a crocodile can be observed, just above the surface of the water, waiting patiently for prey.

Raised huts in tiny clearings surrounded by crops flash past. People live here, fishing, catching crabs, growing bananas and pineapples and coconuts, keeping the odd cow and chicken. There are eco-lodges, too, where you can fully experience all that the canal has to offer, in the company of knowledgeable guides.

We reached a beach after a couple of hours. We were here to look at a property, and the caretaker offered us fresh coconuts he hacked from the tree with a machete. The beach was deserted, beautiful, endless ocean and sand.

Dinner was overlooking Moin and its multicolored Caribbean houses scattered on the slope beneath us, leading to the cruise ship dock. The sun was setting, brilliant pink and orange, while we sat on the restaurant terrace watching the town go about its business. It was hard to tear ourselves away and head back to the hustle and bustle of San Jose. And we promised that our next trip here we would come back and stay overnight at a lodge. Tropical nights, miles of water, and the odd crocodile…a perfect eco-adventure.

Margaret Summerfield

P.S. If you read last Friday’s edition, you’ll know that Costa Rica’s President allocated $80m last month to kick start the gentrification of Limón.  A further $900m should come from private investment.  To get up to speed on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast and Limón, read more here…and sign up for a free webinar on July 29th at 9pm Eastern Standard Time here.

 

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Posted Under:

costa rica, appreciation potential

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