Brazil's Dark, Exotic Heart | Pathfinder International

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Salvador is known as Brazil’s Capital of Happiness, attracting visitors for its unique artistic, historical and cultural heritage

Dear Reader,

Salvador offers you a glimpse of Brazil’s dark, exotic heart. It’s a unique place, and a contrast to Sao Paulo and Rio…a must-see on any travel itinerary. Moreover, if you are looking for a colonial property on a world-class beach, Salvador is the place for you.

Situated on the northeast coast of Brazil in the state of Bahia, Salvador was Brazil’s first capital before Rio claimed the post in 1763. Formerly a center for the sugar industry and slave trade, Salvador is now the center of Afro-Brazilian culture. You’ll notice the influence in the food, the music, and the candomblé religious ceremonies.

Salvador is the number two tourist destination in Brazil for Brazilians (after Fortaleza) and the number two destination for foreigners after Rio. Visitor numbers look set to increase—Salvador is a host city for the 2014 World Cup.

I stayed in a converted colonial building in Pelourinho, a small district that is home to some of Brazil’s finest colonial properties.

Originally a wealthy city neighborhood, Pelourinho’s decline started in the 1920s. Owning a house in the suburbs became fashionable, and Salvador’s wealthy families deserted Pelourinho. The once-grand buildings slipped into disrepair and decay. But a $100m renovation started in 1992, and today, Pelourinho stands proud. Admittedly, some no-go areas remain. My hotel provided me with a map, with the safe zone clearly highlighted for me.

I arrived on a Sunday, and witnessed Pelourinho in full flow. Steep hills framed the picture-perfect views to the ocean, while the pastel-colored historic buildings provided abundant photo opportunities.

Street vendors sold strange foods. Salvador’s cuisine is a blend of African influences, using strongly flavored palm oil, fish and shrimp paste. Brazilians as well as foreigners appreciate the food’s spiciness and unique taste.

The noise of a street group drumming gave the city a singular and exotic vibe. Combined with the many museums dotting the district, it gives a culturally rich feel to the city. I got a schedule for the nightly entertainment of music, dancing and theater performances, in order to make the most of my stay.

Rio may be famous for its Carnival—but so is Salvador. Carnival in Salvador is the biggest street party on the planet, lasting a week, with up to a million visitors joining the locals. There are three separate circuits, and the atmosphere is competitive fun. Handing the keys of the city to Rei Momo, the King of Carnival, officially launches the celebrations.

I’d rate Salvador’s beaches highly. Flying into the city, you’ll see a lush interior fringed with white sand and blue-green water. Porto da Barra, the best-known beach, was a hangout for musicians like Gilberto Gil in the 1960s. Farol de Barra, the site of Salvador’s landmark lighthouse, is popular with families. North and south of Salvador lie island beaches, including Stella Maris, Flamengo, Tinhare and Boipeba. The island beaches are cleaner, less busy, and picture book perfect…sand, palm trees, and clear tropical ocean.

A house in an upscale neighborhood fifteen minutes from Stella Maris beach had 174 square meters of space (1872 square feet) for 150,000 reals ($87,674). That’s $504 per square meter. In the city itself, you can buy apartments one block back from the beach for 140-150,000 reals ($81,824-$87,674). That gets you 30-40 square meters, and sometimes an ocean view.

For more spacious living, there’s an apartment in front of the lighthouse in Barra, with great ocean views. The 3-bed 2-bath unit has 121 square meters (1300 square feet), for 350,000 reals ($204, 894). The location and layout make this apartment ideal for rental.

The city’s status as a major tourist destination, and hosting the 2014 World Cup, should ensure a steady stream of renters for such apartments.

For me, though, the attraction of Salvador is the city’s traditions, its culture and its vibe. It’s very African-influenced, and very different from the rest of Brazil. The colonial buildings, the street performances, and the little museums offered an alternative to beach life (although I enjoyed the beaches too). In Brazil’s northeast, such choice in cultural offerings is rare—and made me appreciate Salvador’s charms that much more.

Margaret Summerfield

Editor’s note: The prices in this report are based on an exchange rate of R$1.70 Brazilian reals per US dollar.

Brazil’s Dark, Exotic Heart