Sunday, July 31, 2011
It's a magnificent sight...dramatic, timeless, and beautiful scenery
Dear Reader,
The landscape was staggering in its beauty. Stark, beautiful, untouched...shadowed by passing clouds, illuminated by sunshine...unchanged for centuries.
I wasn't sure what I'd find around the next corner. Dramatic red cliffs gave way to layered bluffs and rock faces bright with colored mineral stripes, in hues of purple, cream and pink. Scrubby trees and giant cacti disappeared in the space of a few hundred yards, replaced by a lush oasis, rich with greenery and flowers. Farmers picked their way down steep, stone-strewn footpaths, their flocks of goats scampering ahead. Tiny handwritten roadside signs signaled cheese for sale...premium honey...and local earthenware.
My destination was two hours away. It promised upscale elegance, and a comfortable retreat for perceptive home owners. I really had no idea what to expect. In fact, I was downright skeptical. I couldn't imagine why anyone would choose to live somewhere so off the beaten track. But what I found took me by surprise. I think it will impress you, too.
The Landscape Wins You Over...
I hadn't planned on visiting Argentina at all. But I had a scheduled trip to Uruguay, and the developer suggested I check out his project in Argentina's northern wine country. It rather intrigued me. It would only take a few extra days, I reasoned...and then I'd know for sure if this place made sense.
I landed in Buenos Aires, Argentina's capital, and then took a domestic flight to Salta. That took two hours. And I still faced a 2.5 hour drive from Salta to Cafayate, the location of the development.
Thing is, it took more like four hours. And not because the road was bad or the car broke down. Oh, no. It took four hours because of the scenery. For the first hour, we stayed on schedule, noting the little towns we passed through, the streets lined with scarlet and pink bougainvillea trees, the quiet plazas with their whitewashed churches. But then we got to Quebrada de las Conchas (Shell Gorge) national park. We pulled over to take photos. And all sense of time-keeping went out the window...
The landscape from that point on was amazing. Sharp outcrops, bluffs and mesas. Skeletons of long-dead animals traced delicately on stony surfaces. Red rock, grey rock, pink rock, striped rock, glittering rock. Massive overhangs and boulders bigger than houses. Signposts to showcase the strangest formations...the devil's throat, the house of wolves, the toad. It feels a little fantastical, unreal...but it's compellingly, strangely beautiful.
And what came next was just as compelling...
A Colonial Village, Wineries and Fine Dining
The road wound its way through the mountains and valleys to a little colonial village called Cafayate. Vineyards surround the town, their lush green a rich contrast to the towering Andes that serve as a backdrop. Cafayate, in a word, is cute. Its clean central plaza boasts the obligatory church, and a neatly landscaped park. But for such a small village (only 6000 people live in the village itself), it offers a lot of choice when it comes to dining.
In the cool evenings, Cafayate's plaza fills with groups socializing
All around the plaza, and down the small side streets, you'll come across a surprising array of sidewalk cafes, restaurants serving mouth-watering food, an ice-cream store offering wine sorbet...
And at prices that won't hurt your pocketbook. A gourmet meal set us back $20 a head, including wine.
Craft stores, leather stores, stylish boutique hotels, and art galleries line the streets. You can take a walking tour of the town's many award-winning vineyards and bodegas (wineries). Cafayate has produced fine wine since the middle of the 17th century. At 5500 feet above sea level, with more than 300 days of sunshine a year, a mild climate with little rain and a large underground aquifer, it's an ideal spot for growing vines. Many small family-run bodegas still press the grapes by hand.
A Private Luxury Retreat
Just a couple of minutes outside the town, La Estancia de Cafayate blends gracefully into its panoramic setting. This is the project I had come so far to see. And yes, it was worth it.
The inspiration behind La Estancia was to offer a retreat...a private place far from the crowds...where you could enjoy life at your own pace, pamper yourself, and escape from the stresses and strains of modern life...
And they've achieved just that. From the moment you go through the stone entrance gate, you'll like what you find. The high Andean peaks reach heavenwards on one side...a river meanders alongside the property...and horse riding across the sand dunes at the back on a shimmering moonlit night is magical...
La Estancia celebrates three passions: golf, wine, and horses. The Bob Cupp 18-hole links-style course weaves its way around the dunes, the vineyards and some small lakes.
The clubhouse is already open...a nice spot for lunch or a glass of wine
The clubhouse bar and restaurant are open. We enjoyed a delicious lunch, sourced from mostly local ingredients, and sampled some of the Torrontes wine from La Estancia's own vineyard.
As an owner, you get a share of the 180 acres of vineyard in the community. That translates to an annual allocation of premium wine...and table grapes, too.
The underground aquifer that sits underneath Cafayate feeds fresh water springs, filtered by the layers of rock in the Andes. Those high-quality springs will provide the drinking water for the community. Nut and fruit trees dot the community' s expansive 550 hectares (1360 acres).
Plans call for an equestrian center. La Estancia is in the heart of gaucho country, where farmers still herd sheep, cattle and goats on horseback.
This is gaucho country...and La Estancia caters for horse-riding owners
A network of riding trails loops through the community, into the dunes and valley beyond. Polo fields give owners the chance to watch the exhilarating sport of kings.
Other planned amenities include a fitness center with swimming pool, squash and tennis courts, a spa, and a boutique hotel.
With 1360 acres, you might think that La Estancia could fit in a lot of home sites. Not so. Around 55% of the land will stay as green space. The community has 360 spacious home sites, ranging in size from a half-acre to four acres. Views vary. Some sites have views of the Andes...others face the vineyards or golf course. Lot pricing starts from $230,000. Residential villas, with rental management from La Estancia's boutique Grace hotel, start at $500,000.
A number of homes are already finished or under construction in La Estancia. Some are truly magnificent...with cathedral-high hallways, large expanses of glass framing the awesome views, natural stone archways and gigantic wood doors. The homes use local materials...stone, wood, adobe, and brick. The living spaces wrap around airy terraces, galleries and patios. These amazing homes wouldn't look out of place in a glossy coffee table book. Not that you're likely to see them there...the owners value their privacy above all.
Build costs run around $110-150 per square foot, for a beautifully-crafted and finished home.
It's Not for Everyone
Now, if you're thinking that it takes a special kind of person to want to live here, even on a part-time basis, you're right. La Estancia is not for everyone. But it might surprise you to learn that more than 200 lots have already sold. And the owners come from many different countries (30 at the last count), and from many different backgrounds. But they all have a few things in common.
They are individuals, who think for themselves. A large portion are successful and well-known in the fields of business, health and industry. They enjoy personal freedom. They are open to new ideas. And they don't want a mainstream destination for a second home. They want something that's a little off the beaten track. That way, they get the peace and tranquility they are seeking...not drunken spring break crowds and whooping bridal parties.
And for the record, it's not just the expats at La Estancia who love Cafayate. During my trip, I searched for a real estate agent...or even a home or piece of land for sale. I came up empty-handed. Properties rarely come on the market here. Instead, they are handed down through families for generations.
But Is It for You?
I came here wondering who would ever want to own in a place like this. On paper, it didn't make a lot of sense. But soaking up the calm serenity of La Estancia...gazing spellbound at the incredible scenery...immersing myself in the unhurried easy pace of life in Cafayate, where the past blends seamlessly with the present...it was easy to see why so many have chosen it.
You can experience the addictive charms of Cafayate, and explore the La Estancia community for yourself, this November 9th-13th. You'll sample the relaxed lifestyle...with alfresco lunches in the vineyards, and wine tasting. You can go horse-riding...explore Cafayate...or practice your swing on the golf course. You'll meet current owners, and the developer. And you'll get all the information you need on buying a property here...and the lowdown from expats that have already made the move.
You'll really get a feel for whether this place is right for you.
There is a modest fee of $300 charged for this event. But if you sign up by September 15, 2011, you'll pay just $200 per person (this does not include accommodation).
Just send the concierge at La Estancia an e-mail at (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address), and let him know that you want to take part in the trip. (Please do so ASAP, as there are only a limited number of spots available.) The concierge will provide you with a schedule, reserve a spot for you, and help you with your travel and accommodation arrangements in Argentina.
These events at La Estancia are usually over-subscribed. Make sure you aren't disappointed. Lock down your spot on the November 9th-13th trip today: (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).
Margaret Summerfield
P.S. As I said, this isn't an opportunity for everyone. But if you think it's what you are looking for, it's worth the trip to check it out. At worst, you'll spend an enjoyable mini-vacation in one of the most beautiful spots in the Americas. At best, you'll find your piece of Shangri-La. What have you got to lose? Contact (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).
Posted Under:
argentina, luxury, golf, vineyard
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