Tahiti without the Price Tag

Monday, April 18, 2011

Southern Zone Costa Rica

It’s a little like Tahiti…without the price tag

Dear Reader,

“About here is where it starts to look like Tahiti.”

It took me a couple of seconds and a few takes to see what Steve meant as we pulled off the main highway to one of the many beaches that dot this stunning stretch of coast.

As a reader of these dispatches you will know that new highways have reduced the drive time from Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose, to her Southern Zone, from eight to three hours. Today, I’m gliding down the new coastal highway taking in this stunning beauty. I’m on vacation…just chilling with Steve…so plenty of time for pit stops to swim, or refuel on ceviche or curried banana (you need to try the curried banana when you visit the little village of Ojochal).

On the beach a lone surfer, board under arm, races into the oncoming surf. His dog follows, biting surf before retreating to the sand, waiting loyally. I haven’t been to Tahiti so I don’t know if Steve’s comparison is accurate. I do know that the coast and terrain has undergone a dramatic transformation as we travel south.

The jungle canopy is an intense and lush green…rolling right down to wide sandy beaches…like a tropical duvet for the hills that rise steeply and dramatically from the other side of the road we have been driving on. It’s stunning.

We have pulled in off the coastal highway to one of the beaches (they are all public) that are tucked between forested headlands. Everything is quiet save for a ceviche vendor’s rustling as he sets up shop for the day. His menu reads: Fish ceviche, shrimp ceviche and mixed ceviche. Prices are set at: $1.50, $1.80 and $2 respectively. This is where locals and passing traffic will stop for lunch or a quick snack…their fast food.

There is no development on the beach. Development hasn’t come here yet. When it does, strict regulations should protect this coast. That’s good…because tourists, second-home owners and retirees are set to come in their thousands.

As we set off again, pointing south on the new highway, Steve reminds me how difficult this place was to get to. Inaccessible, in fact, at certain times of the year. But now, we’re driving on the smooth highway just weeks after the wettest rainy season in living memory had passed.

It feels like we are in a different world here, but Manuel Antonio’s high-end hotels and million-dollar condos are only an hour up the new road. This is a text book “Path of Progress” play. This is a beautiful place where prices stayed low because it was difficult to get to. Now it’s easily accessible by road.

President Laura Chinchilla was in the area last November, lending her support to the planned international airport. The President toured the region and attended several meetings, emphasizing the importance of support for the region’s tourism industry and the airport wherever she went.

Her commitment to the Southern Zone is more than populist rhetoric. Tourism is Costa Rica’s biggest earner. Eco- tourism in the Southern Zone will be a big engine for growth in Costa Rica. So, this is a very big deal for the country.

It’s a big deal for us because we can still buy ocean-view lots here for one sixth…or maybe less…of what you would pay on Costa Rica’s north Pacific coast. It’s nicer here…and it should stay this way. What’s likely to change is the price tag.

But, today is all about chilling…and what a place to do it! You should check this place out. You won’t be disappointed.

Ronan McMahon

Editor’s Note: Steve hosts chill weekends in the Southern Zone. These are four-day trips, designed to give you a taste of the region…to try out the beaches, the little towns (and even the ceviche) for only $250, including transport, accommodation and meals. You’ll also see the area’s premier real estate opportunity, with lots from only $40,000. Click here to reserve your place on the next trip which runs May 26th-29th.

 



You might also be interested in:

Chill in Costa Rica’s Southern Zone


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